Monday, 11 August 2014

Croatia, Istria, Rovinj

We have just returned from the wonderful province of Istria in Croatia, the rugged North, adorned with forests and national parks it joins Slovenia at it Northerly most point and across the tiny strip of sea is glorious Italy. The town of Rovinj (http://www.rovinj.co/ ) is right opposite Venice and you really sense that the land here ripped in two all those thousands of years ago, the landscape and food are so similar to Italy and it’s clear that the similar climate and soil has shaped the cuisine on both sides of the Adriatic.

Motovun Town
Motovun Town
The trip was a mixture of relaxing with food and the stunning Istrian wines; the highlights being crisp and cool while Malvazija and ruby red Cabernet Sauvignons, and visiting the stunning little medieval hilltop towns on the hunt for truffles and oils, which I have brought back and will definitely be using in some dishes inspired by the region.  Istrian cuisine is very similar to its Italian counterparts across the tiny ocean,  rich with truffles, green virgin olive oils, and an abundance of seafood. It has a delicate approach which is mighty in its flavours!

Istrian Wines
Local Produce 
 We stayed at the stunning contemporary ‘Lone’ design hotel http://www.lonehotel.com/en/ which is situated on the edge of a national park, with clear turquoise sea and is a gentle 20 minute stroll from the small fishing town of Rovinj. Lone has some fantastic restaurants and bars within, however our favourite was ‘L’. Here we sampled some beautifully crafted dishes, my favorites being a pumpkin risotto with mushrooms and truffles which was velvety and delicate and balanced perfectly, a wasabi and oyster beef tartar with quails egg which was bold and loud and gregarious, and a starter of giant king prawns in a fiery hot coconut broth that made us want to lick the plate clean (not the done thing in a nice restaurant!) The Lone is such a wonderful place with very professional staff, beautifully designed rooms and gorgeous amenities, we will be back again I am certain.
Pumpkin Risotto
Wasabi Beef Tartar 

We also ate a fantastic eight course menu at the neighboring Wine Vault in the Hotel Monte Mullini (part of the same chain) http://www.winevault.com.hr/en/ which was one of the best meals I have had in a while. My highlights were a starter of homemade fois gras terrine with apricots and smokey lardon, and incredible wagu beef carpaccio served in a delicate Asian broth of lemon grass and radishes which was light  and elegant and made me smile for a good hour! Christians highlights were a spicy prawn tempura and a risotto of shellfish, stunning!


Seafood Risotto
Fois Gras & Apricots
                         
Rovinj itself has some beautiful restaurants, we ate at the coveted “Blu” http://www.blu.hr/, a tiny place which served us stunning local fish in delicate mango sauces and gorgeous truffle covered dumplings. And we wandered the cobbled backstreets and ducked in to tiny restaurants which were more like being invited in to the locals living rooms and had generous bowls of linguine with olive oil and truffles and plenty of fresh seafood served simply with olive oil and lemon juice.

Prawns With Coconut 
I will be back to Croatia for sure, it is a beautiful land with so much variety and it’s vibrancy meets you in its people and in its food. Do let me know if you are heading to the area, I have so many tips which I didn't put on here (I could waffle on all day!) and I would be happy to share them with you.


Dumplings with Truffle

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